Annapurna Circuit Trek

A magical journey around the entire Annapurna massif reaching the Zenith of Thorong La Pass at 5416m.

The classic trek in the Annapurna region is the Annapurna Circuit. The complete circuit has only been possible since the mid 1980’s when Manang area was officially opened up to non-Nepalese visitors. For an all-round experience of the scenery and cultures of Nepal this trek has a lot to offer. Starting in the lush Marshyangdi Valley, that separates the Annapurna range from that of Manaslu, the scenery is composed of lush cultivated fields with dense forests on either side. In the winter season, orange trees are laden with fruit and fragrant frangipani blossoms cast their scent along the trails. As you travel higher, the valley becomes more rugged until the villages and forests finally give way to the arid hills of Manang. The Thorong La pass, at 5416 meters, marks the high point of the trek after which the trail joins the Kali Gandaki River that flows through the deepest gorge on earth.

This is a challenging trek that is not without some risks. The crossing of Thorong La can be dangerous at times, especially during unexpected snowfall, so potential trekkers must make sure that they are well prepared and equipped for all eventualities. If a few extra days are allowed for, it is then possible to enjoy several of the possible side trips and add immeasurably to the experience. An entry permit for the Annapurna Conservation Area Project (ACAP) is needed for this trek.

Most trekkers start the trek by taking the bus from Kathmandu to Besishahar. These days the journey is accomplished in around five or six hours which allows a few hours trekking on the first day. The trail from Besishahar follows the partly constructed road as far as the small market town of Khudi. This road can be avoided by crossing the river below Besishahar and trekking along the east bank of the river rejoining the main trail at Bhulbhule.

The first few days of the trek follow the Marshyangdi through scattered farming communities inhabited by a mixture predominantly composed of Gurungs but with a sizeable number of Brahmin communities. The crops range from rice and wheat at the lower elevations to corn, millet and barley as the altitude increases. Above the valley floor the hills are cloaked in forest with the occasional clearing indicating human settlements. Higher still, the snowy peaks of the Annapurna and Manaslu ranges dominate the skyline. A feature of this section of the trek is the number of high water falls that cascade down into the main river. The valley rises slowly so altitude sickness is rarely a problem at this stage.

After four days on the trail, the river which has been flowing from the north changes its course and flows from the west. At this point the landscape changes with steep rocky gorges on each side and large stands of pine making up the forest cover. By the time the district headquarters of Chame has been passed the hills are becoming more and more barren and the people predominantly Manangba. Look for a number of ancient temples, some of which represents the pre-Buddhist, Bon religion.

The tree like is reached a few hours before arriving at Manang where a compulsory rest day should be taken for acclimatisation to the increasing altitude. There are a number of possible side trips from Manang that can be taken on the acclimatisation day. Perhaps the most spectacular is to the west, across the river and up to the Gangapurna glacier with its deep blue lake formed by the melting glacial ice. The Himalayan Rescue Association clinic is located in Manang village and holds afternoon awareness lectures for trekkers warning of the danger of AMS. These lectures are well worth attending.

From Manang, the trail passes through high alpine pastures until the small cluster of teahouses at Thorong Phedi is reached. An early morning start form here will allow you to reach Thorong La by mid morning and then start the long descent across the scree slopes to Muktinath before the afternoon cloud sweeps in. this whole section has no permanent settlements and shelter is hard to find. For safety, trekkers should never travel alone along this section.

Muktinath, a famed pilgrimage site for both Buddhists and Hindus, is the first major settlement reached after the crossing of Thorong La. Be sure to visit the temples here and especially look for the eternal flame, fuelled by natural gas, which can be found in the small Buddhist temple below the main shrine.

From Muktinath the views to the west are now of the Dhaulagiri range while to the north can be seen the arid hills of Upper Mustang. The trail leads down through villages inhabited by people of Tibetan stock until it reaches the banks of the Kali Gandaki River, the home of the Thakali people. A further four days trekking down though this, the deepest valley on earth, brings you to the road head at Beni from where buses to Pokhara can be found. Settlements of particular interest below Muktinath are Jomsom with its airport, a possible exit point to Pokhara, Marpha with its fascinating medieval architecture designed toward off the fierce winds that blow daily up the gorge and Tatopani with its hot springs.

There are a number of possible side trips that can be combined with the Annapurna Circuit. Either from the Manang side or from below Jomsom it is possible to trek up to the high altitude lake at Tilicho. You must allow at least four days for this trek and be fully self-sufficient. Also on the eastern side of the Kali Gandaki there is a trail that leads to the original North Annapurna Base Camp that was used by the French expedition that first scaled the peak. On the western side of the valley treks to Hidden valley via Dhampus pass and to the Dhaulagiri icefall are also possible options. All of these side trips are suitable only for fit and experienced parties who are fully self-sufficient.